Backpacking the Roan Highlands | Living

The Roan Highlands is undeniably one of the most scenic sections of the entire Appalachian Trail. With many high-elevation grass-covered peaks and miles of panoramic views, it is more reminiscent of the Highlands of Scotland than the mountains in the eastern United States.

We are fortunate in East Tennessee and Western North Carolina to have such a unique and stunning landscape in our backyard.

This region is truly magnificent in every season, but late spring and early summer may be the best, as it offers an abundance of diverse wildflowers, some of which are rare species such as the Gray’s lily. Large masses of flame azaleas and Catawba rhododendrons bloom in June, creating a pallet of color on the lush mountain slopes. It is also the longest stretch of grassy and heath bald mountains in the Appalachian range.

The history of this area is rich. Many renowned botanists, such as John Bartram and Andre Michaux, visited the Roan Highlands in the 18th and 19th centuries to study and collect rare plant species. And in 1780, the Overmountain Men, based at Sycamore Shoals (then called Fort Watauga) in Elizabethton, crossed the Roan Highlands at Yellow Mountain Gap on their way to the Battle of Kings Mountain in South Carolina. In one hour and five minutes, they defeated the British’s American Tory army in what we know as a prominent turning point in the Revolutionary War.

In September 1898, even legendary conservationist John Muir visited the Roan Highlands. In a letter to his wife he described the region. “After lunch yesterday we walked five miles along the mountain top. The open, broad-ridge top for miles is covered with rhododendron about five feet high, which in flower must make a glorious show. The temp is distinctly alpine and for the first time since leaving home I feel like my old self. I have been quite miserable but this air has healed me.”

Without a doubt, the Roan Highlands has the ability to “heal” and to astound. To visit it in its entirety, I recommend a backpacking trip.

GETTING THERE

The hike is about 15 miles from Carvers Gap (at the TN/NC state line, along highway TN 143/NC 226) to Highway 19E near Roan Mountain, Tennessee. I suggest beginning your journey at Carvers Gap because there will be less elevation gain in this direction. This is a one-way hike so you will need to leave a car at highway 19E, and either shuttle to Carvers Gap or park another car there. I recommend utilizing Mountain Harbor B&B instead of leaving a car along the road. They charge $10 to park your car there per night, while also providing shuttles.

Once at Carvers Gap, you walk north on the Appalachian Trail and follow the white blazes the entire way. For experienced and fit backpackers, this will most likely be a one-night excursion, but if you want to take in all the scenery, check out some side trails and have a more relaxing experience, you might wish to stretch it out to two nights.

HIGHLIGHTS

Mile 0.6 — After hiking through a rare and beautiful spruce-fir forest, you will summit the first grassy peak of Round Bald at elevation 5,825 feet. From here you will have 360-degree views of the mountains of Virginia, Tennessee and North Carolina.

Mile 1.3 — Summit the 5,820-foot Jane Bald. This is more of a heath bald with dense masses of rhododendron. The interesting rock formation just prior to the summit is Cranberry Gneiss, which is over a billion years old and among the oldest rock in the United States.

Mile 1.8 — After a short descent, you will climb up to another bald area to the junction of the blue-blazed Grassy Ridge Trail leading off to the right. This will add extra mileage, but the 0.75-mile spur trail leads to the 6,189-foot summit of Grassy Ridge — one of the tallest balds in the Appalachians, offering incredible panoramic vistas.

Mile 2.0 — Leave the balds and make a steep descent into a forested area, with a few reliable water sources crossing the trail.

Mile 3.5 — Reach Low Gap and the Stan Murray Shelter, where there are numerous campsites. There is also a spring east of the trail.

Mile 5.3 — Arrive at Yellow Mountain Gap. This is where the Overmountain Men crossed into North Carolina. It is also the junction of the Overmountain Victory Trail. If you take a right on the blue-blazed trail, in 0.2 mile it will lead you to a good water source, and an old barn once used as a shelter. The barn is no longer in use, but the large field beside it would make a great campsite for those on a two-night excursion. Views down into the Roaring Creek Valley are wonderful. Following Yellow Mountain Gap, you begin a very strenuous ascent. Extensive vistas on your right will help to keep your mind off the difficult climb.

Mile 7.0 — Summit the grass-covered Little Hump Mountain, elevation 5,460 feet. This is a good campsite option for the one-night backpackers with an amazing sunset and sunrise. Just remember that there are no water sources on this summit, so you’ll have to carry extra water if you wish to camp here. Also be wary of forecasts of high wind or thunderstorms on this peak.

Mile 8.0 — Reach Bradley Gap after a descent through hardwood forests and beautiful wide fields. At the gap there are numerous campsites and a piped spring. This is another excellent camping option for the one-night backpackers. Just past the campsites the landscape will open up drastically for your ascent to Hump Mountain. In my opinion, the climb following Bradley Gap is the most scenic section of this entire trip, and the most remote.

Mile 9.0 — Enjoy the amazing summit of Hump Mountain at elevation 5,587 feet. This is a prominent, exposed peak with far-reaching vistas in every direction. After the summit you will have a gradual 0.75-mile descent down the sprawling, grass-covered Houston Ridge. The rugged peaks of Grandfather Mountain and the Linville Gorge can be seen in the distance.

Mile 9.8 — Exit Houston Ridge at a fence and begin a sharp decline through a woodland section of trail. The hiking along this next 1.5-mile is very rocky and difficult.

Mile 11.3 — Arrive at the meadows of Doll Flats with extensive views into North Carolina. If you are looking for a good place to spend another night, this is it. There are abundant campsites and a piped spring in this location.

Mile 14.5 — End your trek at highway 19E, or take a left and make a short 0.3 mile road walk to Mountain Harbor B&B.

This trip will take you through the most remarkable landscape our region has to offer. You will be on exposed high-elevation terrain for much of the excursion, so prepare accordingly for the wind, thunderstorms, and considerably cooler temperatures.