Ruapehu: Secret spots off the mountain

Can you ski? If you answered no, I share your pain. At this time of year, the snow shredders head to the mountains and envy boils over. What can the rest of us do to enjoy winter? Well, I’ve found the answer. On a recent trip to the Ruapehu region, I discovered some of the best hidden secrets off the mountain.

Milky Way hideaway

Tucked away on the edge of the Tongariro National Park is a remarkable place to marvel at the Milky Way.

The Nightsky Cottage is so undisturbed that there’s a resident population of kiwi you will hear at night – not to mention deer that pass by as dusk approaches.

Aside from the solitude, the star of the show is, literally, the stars. The cabin is well away from any light pollution and, on a clear night, the hut is blanketed in a glistening sky.

The cabin has a large skylight for observing the stars, or there is an outdoor deck where you can wrap yourself in a blanket to enjoy the elements. The bathroom is another highlight: you will find two freestanding baths overlooking the bush. It’s the perfect place to defrost after gazing at the universe.

The cottage is also one of the most environmentally friendly in the country. You won’t find any single-use plastic, even the soaps and bath bombs are handmade, and your plush duvet is created from 175 milk bottles.

READ MORE:
* A guide to Tongariro National Park: When to go, where to stay and what to do
* How to make your family’s first skiing holiday a success
* Air New Zealand cargo container in roundabout

Old Coach Rd

One of the country’s best short rides (and walks) is found on the outer reaches of Tongariro National Park, known as the Old Coach Rd.

This magnificent trail, which weaves through an enchanting forest and crosses a spectacular viaduct, was originally a road link between two sections of the North Island’s main trunk rail line, before it was fully connected. A horse-drawn carriage would follow the trail, taking freight and passengers between the two railheads.

After the rail lines were joined, the trail was left to decay for nearly 100 years, before it was rediscovered and restored at the turn of the century.

While the Jurassic bush is beautiful, the highlight is the old Hāpuawhenua Viaduct. It’s a spectacular curved bridge high above the forest.

The Chef’s Table

New Zealand has no shortage of world-class dining experiences, and one of the best is where you would least expect it: on top of a remote hill, deep in the Ruapehu hinterland.

The Chef’s Table is like a journey to the dining equivalent of heaven. You first need to drive to the remote Blue Duck Station, an eco-farm surrounded by the Whanganui National Park.

You will then ascend a mountain in a special off-road vehicle to find a hilltop hut overlooking a primeval expanse of land. There, in an off-the-grid restaurant, you will be served a 10-course degustation meal, prepared with fresh ingredients from the farm. You can even stay the night on the hill in a secluded cabin.

The restaurant has closed for winter now as it’s too wet to drive people up there. However, bookings open from September 1, and are already being snapped up.

Ohakune

Ohakune may be the carrot capital of New Zealand, but it’s also steadily gaining a reputation as the provincial party hub of the Central North Island. The tiny town of 1000 recently hosted 9000 for the Ohakune Mardi Gras. Its burgeoning popularity is helped by a few local institutions, such as Johnny Nation’s Chocolate Eclair Shop.

The family-run store, which has been operating for more than 70 years, serves giant cheap eclairs and, during the ski season, it sells more than 1200 a day. At $3 each, you won’t find better value.

Lahars aren’t something you want to encounter while exploring the region, except if you visit The Blind Finch. I have a sweet tooth that rates on the nuclear end of the scale, but I met my match with its chocolate lahar.

These drinks are decadently thick hot chocolates with enormous dollops of flamed marshmallow. It’s best shared, but if you can get to the bottom of one yourself, you have a Chernobyl-grade sweet tooth.

Raetihi

While Ohakune gets more attention, a tiny town less than 20 minutes away is the epitome of a hidden gem. Raetihi has an exciting small-town cafe and arts culture, and a fascinating dinosaur museum that kids will love.

Dinosaur House is home to the country’s largest collections of privately owned dinosaur skeletons, fossils and life-size models, painstakingly collected over decades by Ian and Sarah Moore.

The museum has enormous moving dinosaurs, documentaries, and even dinosaur arcade games. Entry is just $8 for a child, and is a must-stop if you have kids in tow.

On the mountain

As great as these hidden gems are, you can’t visit the Ruapehu region without going up the mountain. Here’s my beginner’s guide to making it a great day out.

Learn to ski

As you know, I’m useless at skiing. I’d make a hippopotamus on a snowboard look elegant.

So, in the true spirit of Tourism New Zealand’s “do something new” campaign, I headed up Whakapapa to try to learn how to slide down a mountain on two long pieces of wood. Surely it can’t be that hard, right?

I arrived at Happy Valley, hoping a reincarnation of Mother Teresa (the snow edition) would be my instructor; I needed someone with saint-like patience.

I was in luck; mountain guru Lyall Crump, son of the late author Barry Crump, arrived with a warm smile and tonnes of tolerance. Being a Crump, at least he was used to funny things – such as my relationship with gravity.

I was first taught to ski on one foot, before being introduced to turns and short runs. In less than an hour, I had the basics in the bag.

We will all remember Covid-19 for the rest of our lives, but why not create another lifelong memory. Make Covid the time you finally learnt to ski (or snowboard).

Sky Waka

New Zealand’s highest cafe is found on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu, accessed by the longest and most advanced gondola in the country.

The Sky Waka travels at six metres a second along its 1.8-kilometre wire, meaning anybody can access this stunning part of the mountain.

The food, sadly, is disappointing for such a magnificent location, but don’t let that discourage you. Coffee while overlooking towering snowy peaks is a drink you will never forget.

And if you’re up to it, you can ski or snowboard back down to the base station. Or, like me, glide back down in the gondola.

The chateau

It is one of New Zealand’s most iconic buildings. You could almost say it’s Aotearoa’s version of Buckingham Palace. Chateau Tongariro is on many bucket lists and, without hordes of international tourists, it’s a great time to finally tick it off.

The Chateau’s character is evident when you walk in the door, with a grand lounge full of chandeliers.

By night, as people gather fireside in the lounge, a grand pianist brings the room alive as you watch the dusk descend on Mt Tongariro, it’s hard to find a better atmosphere. You don’t need to stay, you can also enjoy the ambience over a drink or dinner.

More information:

Playing there:

Whakapapa day passes from $74. Instructor lessons from $99. Sky Waka from $49. Visit mtruapehu.com.

Old Coach Rd self-guided bike tour with transfers, from $50 a person. Visit tcb.nz.

The Chef’s Table ATV Safari + Dinner from $370 a person. Visit thechefstable.co.nz.

Staying there:

Chateau Tongariro from $117 a night. Visit chateau.co.nz.

Nightsky Cottage from $650 a night. Visit nightskycottage.co.nz.

Powderhorn Chateau hotel in Ohakune from $222. Visit powderhorn.co.nz.

STUFF TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE: The offer includes return travel on the Northern Explorer train from either Auckland or Wellington to National Park, two nights’ accommodation (at Alpine Chalets) including breakfast and dinner and ebiking the Old Coach Road. From $929 per person twin share. Visit travel.stuff.co.nz/ruapehu for more details and other offers.

The writer’s trip was supported by Visit Ruapehu. This story was produced as a part of an editorial partnership with Tourism New Zealand. Read more about our partnership content here.