Travel to Sri Lanka: What it can be like to stop by now all through the Covid pandemic

I live in Hong Kong, which has done a fantastic job that contains the pandemic. But the tradeoff is that it has been really tricky to travel wherever.

Because of to Hong Kong’s difficult quarantine mandates, most inhabitants have been limited to our town and are unable to even cross the border into mainland China.

Typically I am a hyperplanner, but nearly two years of not heading a lot more than 30 kilometers from my apartment had gone to my head. The concept of a region in Asia being open to tourists was so thrilling to me that I didn’t even do significantly study, figuring I could type it out later and make guaranteed restrictions did not alter in advance of my trip.

This is how it went.

A single 7 days beforehand

In purchase to get into Sri Lanka, I required a lot more than a spontaneously procured airplane ticket. Most people to the island country have to devote up to 14 times at a “stage 1” hotel or vacation resort, which implies it has gained an official authorities designation as a risk-free, authorized place to quarantine.

I’m happy that quarantine went efficiently, mainly because a few days into my continue to be Sri Lanka loosened its rules, allowing vaccinated tourists to spend only a single one evening in quarantine delivered they test detrimental on arrival. I’m immune compromised and have been bummed out about not having vaccinated nonetheless — at least this eradicated 1 layer of FOMO.

And this was no common quarantine. Though some spots — like Australia and China — have to have all quarantiners to remain inside of their lodge rooms other than for when they are presented PCR tests, Sri Lanka has come up with an progressive third path.

Attendees are allowed to go any place on lodge or resort premises and can visit specified pre-authorized “bubble sights” delivered they follow rigorous conditions. They are also permitted to stay at a lot more than just one property for the duration of those two weeks as extended as all the lodges are level just one-detailed.

The Anantara Peace Triangle Tangalle is a level one listed resort, meaning they can host quarantiners.

The Anantara Peace Triangle Tangalle is a amount a single shown vacation resort, indicating they can host quarantiners.

Courtesy of Anantara

Based mostly on that, I went with a two-in-a single offer from the Anantara resort team — I would commit one 7 days at its vacation resort in Tangalle, at Sri Lanka’s southernmost idea, and then just one week at a sister residence in Kalutara, on the western coast.

In addition to the rooms, I was in a position to pay back for my a few mandated PCR exams up entrance and invest in the necessary well being insurance (just $12 to protect up to $50,000 in medical center expenditures) by the hotel’s reserving service, therefore satisfying all my vacation specifications in a person go.

After I experienced every little thing confirmed in writing, I submitted the types to Sri Lanka’s tourism board internet site and, soon after a couple of tense times of continual refreshing, received my tourist visa.

I scheduled a PCR examination for 48 several hours right before my flight and pre-booked a lodge to quarantine in on my return to Hong Kong (a will have to for remaining authorized out of the metropolis in the 1st place). With almost everything in hand — pretty much, as I printed it all out in scenario of cellphone malfunctions — I was prepared to go.

Bandaranaike International Airport reopened to international travelers in January 2021.

Bandaranaike Worldwide Airport reopened to worldwide tourists in January 2021.

Xinhua Information Company/Getty Images

The day of vacation

The Hong Kong airport was deserted, but I continue to arrived two and a 50 percent hrs prior to my flight just in situation there ended up any past-moment snafus. I’m glad I did — it appeared like each individual solitary member of the gate personnel at HKG had to study all my paperwork in triplicate. But I was inevitably awarded a boarding move and sailed via stability in about 10 minutes.

I might introduced some snacks and an empty h2o bottle with me, assuming that anything in the airport would be shut. Fortunately, there were being a few organizations running — I was able to use the ATM, buy a sandwich and trade my Hong Kong dollars for Sri Lankan rupees.

My flight was quite vacant — I might previously guessed as significantly based mostly on how extensive open the seat collection options have been when I checked in on the internet the working day ahead of. Even with that, cabin crew still insisted that the dozen or so travellers board by sections just to maintain all people socially distanced.

I experienced an whole row to myself and absolutely zero pressure about whether there would be area to stow my baggage in the overhead bin.

As an alternative of printed out menus, there ended up lists of readily available things on the seat-again screens, plus useful wipes for everyone to sanitize the TVs with just before touching them.

On arriving in Sri Lanka, we deplaned as normal. Protection lines had been brief, but anyone — nearby and foreign alike — waited in two limited strains. I experienced the entire sheaf of paperwork in my hand together with my passport, but the agent only questioned to see my PCR examination. He gave me a nod, stamped my passport and sent me on my way.

In the arrivals hall, a consultant from my resort was waiting around. One particular ailment of quarantine is not getting any general public transit, so the Anantara experienced contacted me forward of time to verify my flight aspects and assure a private auto would be ready to choose me up. The driver wore a mask and complete PPE.

When I arrived at the resort, a staff members member took my baggage to be sanitized ahead of it was dropped off in my home. Prior to I could check in, I went to a kiosk close to the parking ton that had been established up to perform PCR assessments. My nose and mouth ended up swabbed and then I was sent off to my home devoid of interacting with any other attendees.

To lower get hold of with some others even though ready for the test results to occur back again, I was requested to continue to be in my place and have breakfast delivered to me. No cost breakfast in mattress, in situation I’d contracted coronavirus in the past 72-ish several hours, seemed like a very good offer.

No one was authorized to thoroughly clean my room until the exam came back negative — and, once it did, I experienced full run of the resort, which included a pool, spa, health and fitness center, three places to eat and accessibility to the seaside.

Week 1

Throughout the 7 times I spent at my 1st quarantine resort, I was analyzed for Covid 2 times — on arrival, and then yet again on working day five. Day four was a Saturday, and the lodge concierge had organized an outing for me. That is correct — an outing.

I was taken to Udawalawe Countrywide Park, about 90 minutes away from the vacation resort. A safari-fashion practical experience wherever anyone stays in their personal Jeep, keeping interaction confined, it was the closest of Sri Lanka’s 18 “bubble attractions” open to quarantiners.

Eddie, the hotel’s nature guide, accompanied me in the Jeep, both equally to give additional information and facts about the animals and to make sure almost everything was kosher with regulations.

A glass partition separated us from the driver, so we knocked on the glass if we desired him to end. There were being rest room amenities at the park entrance, with separate, clearly labeled sections for foreigners and locals.

Upon examining in at the visitor’s heart, Eddie and I had to clearly show my detrimental Covid test and an endorsed letter from the hotel confirming I had permission to stop by the internet site. (A rep experienced termed the day just before to double-ensure that it was nonetheless fine for quarantiners to go to.)

It was quite pain-free, and the trade-off — serious, live elephants, some just a several yards absent from me — was a lot more than value it.

On working day seven, I checked out of the Anantara Tangalle and headed by non-public car to the Anantara Kalutara. Because I booked the package deal, the resorts arranged every thing.

From secluded shorelines, incredible wildlife and beautiful architecture, the southern shores of Sri Lanka are among the the island’s top attractions.

Week two

Switching resorts gave me the prospect to see a further area of the state. This time, the closest “bubble” actions were being the Royal Botanical Gardens and the Open up Zoo in Pinnawala, just outside of Kandy.

I took my third and remaining PCR examination on day 13. When the exam came back adverse the following day, the Anantara Kalutara sent all of my data to the nationwide tourism board, which issued an official letter confirming that I had concluded all the quarantine requirements and was now capable to travel freely all around the place.

It was time for period two — the holiday vacation — to start off.

sigiriya sri lanka

Usually, Sigiriya is packed with tourists.

CNN/Lilit Marcus

Weeks a few and 4

Absolutely free to discover the place, I was on what really felt like a pretty usual getaway. I visited a few main cities — Kandy, the cultural funds in the island’s very centre Galle, a southern coastal gem finest recognized for its Dutch-era colonial fort and Colombo, the most populous city.

As for each the regulations, I kept paper copies of my most recent PCR exam and the federal government letter with me. That reported, I was only asked to clearly show my papers 2 times during the rest of the trip — as soon as when I checked into my to start with stage two resort and once more when I was the lone straggler strolling as a result of the “foreigners” gate at the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in Kandy.

The Tooth Relic Temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed historic city of Kandy.

The Tooth Relic Temple is element of the UNESCO Planet Heritage-detailed historic town of Kandy.

Ishara S. Kodikara/AFP/Getty Images

Various workers arrived above to read through and re-go through my paperwork — I suspected it was a blend of enjoyment at finally acquiring a thing to do, nerves about messing up the process considering the fact that there had been so couple of travelers to take a look at it on, and heightened recognition as we were being closing in on Sinhala New Year, a massively essential getaway celebrated by many of the country’s Buddhists, which intended that the temple complex was packed.

Currently being a single of the only foreigners visiting Sri Lanka was a double-edged sword.

On the moreover facet, I usually experienced destinations to myself. Getting in a position to take a look at Sigiriya, Sri Lanka’s most iconic attraction, with no 1 else close to was a spectacular working experience — there ended up no persons placing up elaborate Instagram photo shoots or match hikers whizzing previous me on the trails.

But the isolation was also challenging. It was sad to see all the roadside booths deserted and numerous small enterprises boarded up.

After 8 months of being closed off from the relaxation of the earth, individuals in the hospitality sector were being understandably worried about their livelihoods, and when I was the only traveler I bought the brunt of it. Whilst it is prevalent for a tuk tuk driver to offer you a journey or a vendor to talk to if you want to invest in a carving, there was an air of insistence and nearly each individual check with came with a sob story.

No make any difference how several bottles of h2o I purchased or cab rides I took, it hardly ever felt like plenty of to actually support.

Becoming the lone unfamiliar experience in a group arrived with other benefits and dangers.

A person on the road in Kandy shouted “Coronavirus! Coronavirus! Go again to the lodge!” at me.

At 1 lodge, it felt like the other guests — all locals, as it was a degree two house — unconsciously edged their seats absent from me at breakfast.

At the exact spot, a employees member advised me that he wasn’t allowed to cleanse my home during my keep because of Covid regulations, even though he had just cleaned just about every other occupied place on my ground.

Many Sri Lankans believe that whoever controls the Tooth Relic Temple controls the country.

Many Sri Lankans believe that that whoever controls the Tooth Relic Temple controls the state.

Ishara S. Kodikara/AFP/Getty Pictures

Nevertheless there had been also times of beauty. A woman walked up to me at a cafe to say how satisfied she was that travellers were coming back again to her country, and some helpful locals required to listen to about the coronavirus condition in Hong Kong and asked how folks were being coping.

Colombo and Galle both equally have expat populations, so I stood out way significantly less after I moved to those towns.

The long way house

Three days prior to I was because of to go away the nation, my cellphone pinged. Hong Kong had updated some of its quarantine regulations, stating that travelers from Australia, New Zealand and Singapore could shave a person 7 days off of their quarantine periods.

The draw back? Hong Kongers could not transit in just one of those people nations around the world lest they be puzzled for another person who now fell below the new rules.

That intended that my return flight household — by means of Singapore once again — was canceled.

I managed to find a different way household, but it necessary me to transit through Doha, which is in completely the opposite path, and involved a 13-hour layover.

This also meant I experienced to update my Hong Kong hotel details and that I would be obtaining sprung on a Monday as an alternative of a Saturday, therefore wrecking yet a further weekend.

You know the opening scene in “Truth Bites,” in which Winona Ryder’s character opens her graduation speech by reciting her social safety range, declaring it was the factor she required to know the most? Effectively, I now can recite my passport amount and expiration date with my eyes closed.

The Anantara Kalutara Resort is on a quiet peninsula just south of Colombo city.

The Anantara Kalutara Vacation resort is on a peaceful peninsula just south of Colombo metropolis.

Courtesy of Anantara

In order to leave Sri Lanka, I required just one a lot more PCR check. This was effortless to e book on the net and was a travel-by approach, so I bought a cab and experienced the driver acquire me by. My results have been emailed to me in about 23 hours.

Paperwork accomplished, printed out in the Hilton Colombo business enterprise center and in my palms, I was all set to head residence. But I was not ready to leave.