Travels of a solo Pakistani woman: Istanbul phone calls

Nine months ago, I was struggling with the premature close of what had been a promising new job possibility. A different casualty of the pandemic reverberating across the globe, I made a decision to go again to my hometown of Islamabad to finish out the remainder of my responsibilities remotely. Realistically, I realized it could be months just before new get the job done surfaced. As a mid-career expert, I experienced stored a chaotic routine due to the fact the start off of my undergraduate experiments the considered of keeping household all working day with little to keep myself fast paced was a overwhelming prospect. Bear in brain, this was in the midst of countrywide lockdowns and demanding restrictions on outside activity. I wanted a prepare, and journey beckoned.

Turkey seemed to be a normal preference. In latest yrs, Turkish tv dramas have taken Pakistani screens by storm. Serials like “Muhteşem Yüzyıl” (“Superb Century”), “Intikam” (“Revenge”) and the ideal-loved “Diriliş: Ertuğrul”(“Resurrection Ertuğrul”) have ensconced on their own in our collective hearts. This has resulted in a massive increase in tourism and demand for goods like classic jewelry and confectionery. Although the present swell of fascination is mainly cultural in nature, it speaks to a further relationship my region feels to Turkey, rooted in a widespread Islamic heritage and admiration for figures these kinds of as the founding father Atatürk.


The Basilica Cistern. (Shutterstock Photo)
The Basilica Cistern. (Shutterstock Image)

Even though I hadn’t shared in the on-display screen fervor, my personal fascination with Turkey was nicely set up. Most of my family members had currently been there. I myself had frequented some a long time back, but only for a two-day conference that authorized a couple several hours layover in Ankara it had still left me seeking extra ever given that. I reviewed some of the organized excursions functioning out of Islamabad. Most made available an affordable 7- or 10-working day package for a rapid jaunt all over the significant metropolitan areas, but none of them appealed. I preferred the freedom of placing my very own itinerary and felt I could appear up with a prepare that better suited my speed.

Once I started on the lookout at locations to check out, I was overcome. Turkey has so significantly to see and so a great deal of almost everything! I realized I could recreate an working experience combining the dense eco-friendly forests of Jap Europe, the incredibly hot dry plains of the Middle East, the golden beach locations of the Mediterranean, and the beautiful waters of the Aegean Sea, all with no crossing the Turkish borders. And this was just the physical landscape the heritage of millennia of civilization and a wealthy cultural milieu was all in just tantalizing achieve.

With confined time on hand, I wanted to practical experience the absolute greatest extent of Turkey I could grasp. So started months of research, and what had been a tough prepare for a fortnight’s worthy of of journey immediately turned into a approximately monthlong itinerary. The a person advantage of not doing work comprehensive time was the option for an extended getaway. The good news is, my personal savings (and some thorough travel arranging) would make it possible for me the encounter I was aiming for. After numerous days of selecting metropolitan areas (and with regret for the ones I could not), I experienced my travel map completely ready. Nevertheless, with COVID-19-induced shutdowns and consequent delays, it would not be till the really end of May that I could undertake the journey.

This is the initially in a weekly sequence of posts where I share my journey encounters on the Turkish map. From historic sites and regional cuisine to interactions with the folks of every city, I will just take you throughout the state via my recollections.

Arrival in Istanbul

My Turkish Airways flight touched down on the tarmac on Friday early morning. Right after gathering my baggage, the initially thing I did was head to the Turkcell kiosk to buy a nearby sim card. Knowledge connectivity even though on the highway was an absolute necessity I was considering Google maps, cafe reviews and community transportation schedules. Owning checked just before flying out, I understood the Turkcell Tourist Welcome Pack was the very best healthy for my requirements. In less than 10 minutes the process was full, and I went out in search of my transportation.

My tour of Istanbul was divided into two areas, marking the beginning and conclude of my Turkey experience. For the inaugural jaunt, I experienced picked to keep in the historic Sultanahmet place within effortless access of many landmarks. There are several solutions for heading into the metropolis from the new airport, such as the economical and really useful Havaist bus services that normally takes you to the city heart. However, I took edge of the paid shuttle delivered by my lodge, hoping to get into city speedily right after an exhausting final number of days. I was keeping within just a seven-minute stroll of Hagia Sophia square. It is essential to point out right here that in buy to check into a resort, use any method of intercity transport, and even to try to eat at sure places to eat you must have your HES (Life Fits Into Dwelling, in Turkish “Hayat Eve Sığar”) code. This is obtained prior to your departure for Turkey and is integral for movement in the nation.


The first glimpse of Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque. (Aiza Azam for Daily Sabah)
The 1st glimpse of Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque. (Aiza Azam for Day-to-day Sabah)

Just after checking into my area, I promptly freshened up ahead of heading straight for the Blue Mosque. The very first issue that hits you as you undertaking onto the cobblestoned streets is the number of voices contacting out from all sides. Welcoming but insistent, they greet you, question where you are from, invite you to see their merchandise, offer you lunch menus to scan or inquire if you will need a tour. It in no way lets up, irrespective of whether you are in the vicinity of a historic monument or beating the pavement in search of a supermarket. When not unlike other key tourist hubs about the globe, it is, nevertheless, an frustrating introduction to the town for another person who is however finding their bearings.

As with all mosques in Turkey, any crucial covering is provided just off the entrance, the two for those people wishing to give prayers as perfectly as for the relaxed visitor in will need of apparel proper to a position of worship. This consists of hijabs (head covering), and open up-front gowns or ankle-length skirts. As it turned out, only the primary hall of the Blue Mosque was open up, the rest getting shut for renovations. Friday prayers experienced currently concluded, so I presented namaz (just one of the 5 day-to-day prayers), took a brief tour and still left soon right after. Exiting from the main doorway, I crossed the courtyard toward Sultanahmet square.

And here I was greeted with a sight I had researched for a long time in shots: the Hagia Sophia.

Being capable to stop by this everlasting monument can maintain a various significance for every person. For me, it was the emotional realization of a lengthy-held want, identical to what I experienced professional when I to start with laid eyes on the historical pyramids at Giza. I took a cup of tea from a seller, sat on a bench and gazed at the framework, not arranging to go inside just but. This was a prolonged-sought-soon after option and I wished to establish up to it. My household experienced explained the second both equally mosques named out the adhan (connect with to prayer) at the identical time, so I sat waiting around for the get in touch with to asr (afternoon prayer). At the appointed hour, the muezzin of Hagia Sophia issued the 1st phone, which was recurring by his counterpart in the Blue Mosque. Verse right after verse, they ongoing in tandem, on territory that had heard the exact contact for hundreds of years. It was a exceptional working experience.


Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque in Istanbul. (Shutterstock Photo)
Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque in Istanbul. (Shutterstock Photo)

Afterward, I uncovered a modest restaurant close by, experienced an early evening meal and called it a night.

Topkapı Palace

I experienced booked a blend Istanbul Welcome Card tour for the Basilica Cistern, Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. It enables you to check out all a few sights inside of a three-working day time period, with a choice of time slots. I’m not a single for guided tours as I desire to consider the practical experience at leisure, so this solution was a excellent in shape for the reason that the guide stays with you for the initial 30 minutes to orient your visit, immediately after which you carry on at your very own pace. The offer will come with an audio tutorial you can download to your mobile phone, involves entry tickets, and supplies unique maps for the town and pick sights. It also lets you skip the ticket line and help you save time in my circumstance this turned out to be unwanted since the weekend curfew for inhabitants and lessened tourism owing to COVID-19 meant barely any lines to stay away from.

The palace is divided into four courtyards. The to start with contains the Hagia Irene, the Imperial Mint and the Archaeological Museum the second consists of stunning green walkways that lead to other sections this sort of as the harem, the imperial council corridor, the armory, the kitchens and the audience hall in the 3rd courtyard you locate the library of Sultan Ahmet III, the Treasury, dormitories and crucial Islamic artifacts the final courtyard involves the Revan, Baghdat, Mustafa Pasha and Mecidiye pavilions, with gorgeous sights of the Bosporus. Bear in mind, a full exploration of the whole complex, which was a metropolis unto itself in its heyday, will choose many hours. Approach to go there to start with issue in the morning and you can be accomplished by late afternoon.


The gorgeous decorated buildings in Topkapı Palace. (Shutterstock Photo)
The stunning embellished properties in Topkapı Palace. (Shutterstock Photograph)

For me, a important highlight of the tour was the collection of some of Islam’s holiest relics: the personnel with which Prophet Musa parted the Purple Sea, the swords of the initial four caliphs and Prophet Abraham’s h2o bowl, to title a several. This is also the place you locate the preserved footprint, sword and drinking water bowl of the Prophet Muhammad. For the section with these shows, you need to protect with a hijab. On moving into, you hear a reside recitation of the Quran which is carried out without the need of pause. Be mindful that pictures is not permitted in any aspect of this segment, so consider your time with the exhibits. I selected to go back a next time before leaving.

The harem, which requires a different ticket, is really worth observing. Whilst it largely is made up of vacant rooms with not substantially in the way of ornaments or artifacts, the architecture, inside decoration and record of the numerous residing quarters is worth witnessing it also treats you to an exquisite check out of the Galata Tower from the Queen Mother’s courtyard. The palace’s exhibition of about 350 clocks and watches should really not be missed possibly, with is effective from both Ottoman and European masters. I observed the collection of pocket watches to be significantly breathtaking. There had been items in all measurements inlaid with valuable stone and gems, many depicting delicately crafted scenery, flora or fauna.

My past cease on the way out was at the palace kitchens. Of these, the space I preferred greatest was the dessert kitchen area, a huge brick hall with impossibly large ceilings. It experienced an array of tremendous pots and cauldrons balanced on brick and wood stoves, massive ladles, fire tongs and this kind of. You could conveniently imagine it as a hive of exercise, mind-boggling with the scent of spices, chefs shouting recommendations at assistants who worked at breakneck pace rolling out pastry for baklava or crushing walnuts and pistachio for helva.

It was a excellent way to comprehensive my voyage of discovery of how the Ottomans experienced operate an empire from a palace.